1. If you decide to go Khuvsgul .. Just to it is so wonderful...
2. before Moron get for a couple of hours, have breakfast in the cafe. Then we will have a very long ascent up to the border, about 10 km, half go on foot, say goodbye to the asphalt. Russian border guards offer to place stories in the declaration, so that we can then prove that they are ours. And do. An hour later, we are rushing along a dirt slope, there are first the Mongols first yak. In the evening we drive to Hanh, Kate breaks somewhere wheel. Going to an old friend Bairsayhanu (Baire), very friendly, hospitable and peace of the owner. He lives in the south of the village, near the tourist center "Silver Coast" ("Mongon Ereg"), living in a yurt is 200 rub. / Person. At the hostel - from 1000.
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3. Hatgal goes way up in difficult terrain, on bikes where you can crawl for three days, so it is decided in advance to drive the car section. Or until Hatgal or immediately before Muren. The car is across Bayrou, and very happy that it is not UAZ and comfortable Land Cruiser. Departure is scheduled for tomorrow. Go to Hanh, fotografirumsya. On a camp change rubles for Tug. At the same camp overeat very dense dinner, participate in laying horhoga, play table tennis, ate fish. If you have free time available, can be rolled up to the north of the lake, there are horses for hire at the hostel at Batmunkh and visit the Munch.
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4. Get up early, as agreed. Going, roll out. But the car comes only after 3-4 hours ... It turns out that the woman behind the wheel and it is nothing about our great Bayrou had not heard of, but still agrees to take us and our cargo. In the cabin, except for the driver, four women (buryatka and Mongolian), so we - in the trunk, but nothing can live. Roll on the "lame" roads under the "White Rose" and other retro, sleep on sacks of rice or sugar, treated hushuurami. Observe the Mongols had followed all the way far from us at UAZ, hunt and drink the blood of a slaughtered animal ... In Muren arrive early. We planted near the guesthouse, which is slightly to the left of the local police station. This shelter has a shower, washing machine, kitchen, TV set and other pleasures, we liked it.Spend a day to explore the town, meet some Europeans buy the missing products. Preparing mentally for the next day begins our real journey into the unknown ...
5. On this day, we need to get to Tosontsengela, we do not know anything about this village. A few kilometers from Muren is an old asphalt ends approximately at the pass with a monument. Then to our left is a small lake with interesting birds. On the next pass, set a beautiful stele, which says that Tosontsengelu for 80 years. Moving on, past the rushing UAZ and Lasik full of locals. Venturing acquaintance with a young rider and his name seems Biligum. He teaches English at school, promises to us in our current destination point slip, shop and telephone. Compete with it - the bike against a horse, I'm winning, but he, of course, give in, it can be seen .. He just insanely happy to see us here, the aliens in his steppe, he is smiling and happy. Thus, in the company of cheerful red-rider, we we reach the village, already a little tired, in the north of unreal beauty of landscapes, some prehistoric or something, it seems that now because of the mountains and look out the dinosaur. Among the older houses are starting to look for the night, and we find him at the cafe hostess "Orgil." In the shop buy kvass. A little walk around the village, on the southern edge of the small is an abandoned monastery, a very authentic, and the silence around. Downpour begins, but we are reliably covers our attic at night. Visiting periodically comes girl, the daughter of the mistress, under various pretexts, sees us.
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6. On the next day an hour and a half still moving along the main road from Tosontsengela, then we need to turn to the south, to the Selenga, on minor roads. A little stray, roads very much space in front of his eyes huge. Near the crossing several obscure houses - some trades, someone prepares food for travelers. And we will taste chebureks with soy sauce at one big table with the Mongols. Generally, there is something nice - a sort of oasis. And then - almost desert ride difficult, often go on foot. It's hot, very hot, not a single tree, full of mosquitoes, the sand running surprising sized beetles. After a rather long and very steep rise in the pass at the top of the perfect place for a photographer - view there is fabulous. Around common are Russian birches nostalgic. You can relax in anticipation of funky descent almost to the Rashaanta. Decent overclock and we drive to the village. Then just come to the end of the local big holiday, all drunk, a lot of cars, a lot of people, and here we are, hello.
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In terms of overnight first to run into a local tycoon who offers us some room, more reminiscent of a hospital ward for 25,000 MNT (by the way, it is very expensive). We specifically tired, but still being able to analyze, moves in with her grandmother in the neighborhood, she asks 8000, the difference is palpable. This mini-hotel - "Altan Dol" - nestled on the edge of Rashaanta. The hostess, in addition, for a fee, to make delicious food, and her daughter spoke in English. In the hallway hangs a healthy pig's head, next to sink, be easier to relate to the whole ... And here on a high pole hanging megaphones, and every hour of broadcast something to the local population in the whole district, some news from the mainland, I think. Echo of communism. So it is impossible to sleep, go to sleep early, however, too. Only noticed attraction - a monument to the brave woman on the hill.
7. next item - Tsetserleg (first in our way a little.) Before him, only about 45-miles, so that today an easy and relaxed day. About halfway the road forks, we need to keep to the right. Along the road are many small lakes, but the water is almost always undrinkable. On the banks of different birds.At one point, we run out of a supply of water, we drive to a yurt near the road to try his luck. Responsive hosts sends his son on a motorcycle to the well. Great! The water is incredibly fresh and cold. We still treat hushuurami liver. Sitting, talking, We in Russian, they are in Mongolian. As it turns out.In parting, give our friendly acquaintances batteries and lighter. We go further, sweeping another, rare today, a machine. And the pass is shown a village. I must say it was the most difficult in terms of finding housing. On questioning about the hotels we were sent here and there, but nothing really exists and was not. Shelters in the yurt we agreed to one English speaking Mongolian. She also settled for the night in a normal house, with my family.Our home was just gorgeous, these yurts, seems to possess only the wealthy nomads. Inside, it was a lot of carpet, a few musical instruments and items of clothing, and a lot of all chests, boxes, chests of drawers. There was also a TV, where without it. Hostess once came to us and was getting as much as we do, learned some of the words in their language, thought of the Russian ... A wonderful night in a yurt.
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8. Next - "the last bastion of civilization" for the next 250 miles. Erdenemandal. Rocky road in the beginning. Then cool creek. At the end of placer boulders near the road. Arrived.Settlement is pretty big. Well maintained. Several hotels, shops. We find this one, combined with a shop and dining room. Called "Norovlin." We immediately brought a thermos of something hot and a TV. Customs.
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9. good night's sleep are advancing on the south-west road. Today we do not have time to drive to the nearest settlement, Ihtamir too far for a day crossing. Ie it is, in general, the only area where the tent is needed. The road runs in a very wide valley itself Hanuy small river.Then we are approaching it, you completely lose sight of it. The landscape, perhaps, one of the most crazy and thrilling for all of our journey. If time permits, you can spend on this site for three days instead of two. Any permanent settlement, but something like a cafe shop in a detached house (50-60-km). Even in the twilight of light begin to look for a parking space. See some not camping, not a roadside market. We came, asking permission to get up close to them, we get it. It turns out that the number of people in the 50-man and going there to celebrate the birthday of a venerable grandmother of Ulan Bator. They especially come here, her small home in the capital! We have our grave on the edge of the camp, change clothes, eat buckwheat with vegetables, we bring different goodies, and generally all very kind. One old Mongol offers me snuff, I will not refuse. Then the first time we try ayrag (local alcoholic drink is very weak). Everything is simple and clear, but at the same time we do all this we do not know ...Mongolia. Then you fall in love in every living thing that is around you.
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10. The next day we were in for a surprise. Started asphalt. Suddenly. And so to the Ulan Bator, with short intervals.Reach the outskirts of the village with a Turkish name Ihtamir. The hotel "Gerelt deputy" one tipsy Mongol know that we are Russian, starts asking for vodka and chat, many ape, noisy, but gets resistance from us and the hostess. I must say, with the beginning of the asphalt, we now move on one of the main highways of the country from west to east, and thus significantly increased road traffic. Our zochid buudal kind roadside motel, drive up here from time to time to rest trucks and buses. Past the town beautiful river Hovd Tamir several riverbeds, the water is warm, it's nice to sit there in the evening.
11. Tsetserleg (second on our way with the same name, a large, regional center). Opens before us after a very long recovery from a dirt road. Real Asian city, shop at the store, donkeys, dusty roads, market. We settle in a big hotel "Naran", on the third floor, and the first time we see Muren shower. Dare one day's rest. Here is what to look at. Several temples, museums, monuments, parks, can slazit the surrounding mountains, look at all this beauty from above and be at one with the wind. There is a guest house of international format "Fairfield", where in English you all tell and show, and even feed the English breakfast. There is an Internet, mail. Everywhere heap of any karaoke bars and discos (if suddenly). Roam the streets satisfied Europeans. Interesting town of bizarre rocks, in general, should be delayed.
12. But with all have to say goodbye, and now we're rolling too with our Mongolian road. Under the plan to get to Hotonta, but as a result of the tear to Horhorina, the ancient capital. That is about 110 km. Carefree and merry meet the Spaniards, then the Austrians, they are also on bikes, chatting about this and that, about life on the road ... In this day and get into the city, and in the rain, very tired we reach the goal.
13. In Horhorine is a large complex of monasteries Erdenezuu, its definitely worth a visit.And the city stands a huge monument to the greatness of the Mongolian people. Here we first nabredaem on traders souvenirs, buy yourself all, of their products were found modern Russian coins for 5 rubles, sell a few more - fun.
We have merged with these places, every day we spend the night in a new place, slowly pedal, see smile every second passing car waved us in greeting or honking, we live on the road, is a thrill!
14. Well, what do we have next? I looked at the map. Rashaant again, only a very small and does not remember. However, today we are up to it and not make it. A encounter on a herd of camels, but after this piece of desert! Here she reached a sort of oblique several kilometers from north to south, it looks cool, I've never been in the desert. But next big tourist center of some yurts, and there we stopped. Placed us in a very large tent, given towels, slippers, managed to take a shower after. Parked rested two tourist motorcycle owners we could not see.
15. the next two nights in roadside hotels, ending soon ... Already felt the proximity of civilization, in everything.
16. Ulaanbaatar.
The center of Ulaanbaatar is near Department store ' Их дэлгүүрь' meaning is big store.
near department store there are many guest house, cafe, restaurant ... you can choose guest house.
but Be careful near department store many robber, thief watching you... They need just moment for you precious one, camera, and money.... They are not one, more than 3-4 group....
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