Mongol ulaanbaatar travel

Forest somewhere
once gone

The road
to Urga

Night Urga
(Ulan Bator)

Camp site on the slope
g.Bogdo-Ula.

Mongolia - a country of white yurts and drunken, rare individuals peasant sex, tottering between. Country plush, indifferent wandering Bactrian (two-humped camel) and madly rushing cars 4x4, lifted by a yellow comet tails of dust. And also - quite cheerful silhouettes (in the morning) with a single step People evrozadneprivodnoy 2x2 cross ... A bunch of lazy in the heat of sheep and rocks on the edge of the water, after having gorged itself lake fare of birds, as well as the endless blue of the sky - ocean Tengri over his head, the bottom of which is dotted here and there nedogryzannymi skeletons of fallen brothers our smaller bodies and dormant, yet their living relatives. Here with pleasure drink mare's milk (local and non-indigenous - with some caution!) And with genuine pride served steaming, fragrant juice flowing out, gorgeous buuzy - halhinskoy top national cuisine. Its space covered with a web of countless dusty crossroads and bustling intersections of chaotic pattern Homo sapiens from all continents. And time is slow, with the awakening interest in scrutinizing melteshaschie figures on its surface amphibious creatures and smooth movement in lakes underwater inhabitants (if we are to be honest to the end, and under the earth, too - some fumbling in quietly!)

Yes ... Entertaining enough place - this is the most Kyakhta. On the one hand Russia: hills, deep forest, cows graze on the roadside hut on the time warp, dibs on the bench, rebyatnya in dust bathing. The sun overhead sagging hot flashes of ...

- Dad! But Dad!

- What?

- See, in-o-n there ... That one-and-m ... Ladybugs?

- I see, of course. Yes, exactly! That's right! In fact - this cow ... So?

- Oh-oh-oh! Look - look!

- What? What is it? Where?

Dovish
view

In a Buddhist
temple

Door
Bracket

In datsan

- Yes, over there ... In-on-the-t ... And not looking there! Look - Koszul with horns! (However, roadside Koszul was not only with the horns, but even with the big hairy balls!) More ... Kyakhtinskaya Customs ... 300 meters of the border: health control, passport control, border control (Stop! photograph anything is prohibited! Everything around in this place is the border control strategic secrets of the Great Country!) And - customs clearance. Yeah, but ... it to you, my friends, do not go to Europe, dozing! In my opinion, to complete the feeling at this point coordinates of non-Euclidean space is not enough yet, and some outpatient physical examination, combined with the ultimate divine purgatory! However: For everything it took about four hours ... Lucky, they say, has all passed quickly! Well, the border, then shut and - behind. And the future? Glya-and-a ... Ahead ..This Mughal (Mongolia). Slides remained the same, only the forest somewhere once gone. There also happened to - cover the copper basin and light-brown hair Dedkov with attendants. By red-hot-scorched rocky roadside reluctantly hobbled Mongolian Dedkov in a tattered robe with a half-empty half-full bladder in his hand. And the grass peacefully grazing sheep with two chump (it turned out that they had a second head - it up the ass! ... More for the winter, in a sense - a "fat tail" called - the fat-tailed, sheep, then it turned out) mixed with goat creatures. And white tent cocaine mirages trembling on the horizon ... And the silence, but ... Wow ... Only three hundred meters, and what dramatic change! And the people on the sidelines, then scurries more brownish-black-, looking askance at once through narrowed eyes. How the devil had some invisible: it is Christ, and here Burhan. Well, the case-a ...

Route Ulan Bator - Darkhan. Cruising speed of 100 km / h Not bad for a car with a caravan - a house on wheels! But, and perhaps even - good! F-rr! The road crossed the hairy ball lightning.

- Look, look! See that?

- Gopher?

- Yes, there is! Chipmunk with a bald ass!

-? Are you crazy!? Seen ... Seen, of course! So like - it was still the gopher?

- What are you? Exactly tell you - chipmunk. And tail erect.

- Why pop bald?

- So after all raised tail!

- Ah-ah ... A chipmunk why not burunduchiha? Under a hundred go! Time to see how all?

Evening
prom

Twilight

Go for a drive

Gov (Gobi)

Desert Home

- So the tail is raised, I tell you! Oh you!

About

Novice
and chimera

Mantra case

He and She

Svezheprolozhennaya
road

Roadside
picture

Reindeer stone

Use the remaining time to the fullest (with lunch move without stops) and wedged departing in the evening, at sunset, in a stream of cars Ulaanbaatar. Driving on Ulan Bator is very different from ours (this is an understatement, actually.) Actually, I think - that the people in Irkutsk very unimportant taxis ... You no culture. But here! No-fa-a me ... Nobody misses. Never! No way! Nobody looks at the traffic lights (except ochumevshih birds!) All signals and shouting, grinning through the open window! Jump up and wag on razdolbashennoy completely road, curbs, and if possible on the edges. In this hectic Bedlam looming figure of potential victims of pedestrian! Between all this poking starving mangy little dog (in my opinion, and people - is not very well fed!) I catch myself thinking that the complete picture is not enough rushing on the roofs of cars screaming scream camels!Shandets! This is a traffic jam? A? Exactly ... Well, yes ... What's it like? At a mess! Now, here it is! The word! Found it! Adapt ... Narrows her eyes ...Understand the basic Mongol rule of the road - there are no rules! Well, what is the same, go ahead! I press on the gas, a continuous signal to the sides and try to brazen interpose everywhere ... where I can and can not! And just in case, which I do not - too! I'm going to ram ... At red lights!Wow! It worked! My name Gastello? All places! Last Parade come a-a-s-t! Shies away from the stream of cars behind the trailer blatantly flounder!Oh's! Light it, scattering!

Quite often along our movement on a dirt, there erected here and there, "About" - in Mongolia sounds like "Ovo." Spiritual place, in our means.Entry point of someone's hopes and aspirations, and the output of sacred Mongolian force. Power and truth - this was clearly known to all: "In vino veritas!" Of course - in the wine. For lack thereof local narodec uses vodka. Its something, dear, here and thumps ... Refuel, then the power you need!But at the same time to show the truth surrounding area - "What a sober mind, then drunk on language." About a seemingly formless heap is piled stones of various sizes. In mid-high pole sticking out (often one) studded with fluttering rags matter. Scraps matter reminiscent of its infinity (matter) and transient state. On the ubiquity of presences "spirit" - like all the rest, which publishes unobtrusive spirit (strewn around and on top of the man-made stone ridge): chewing gum, bottles, bits, cigarettes, candy, buttons, etc. Pass on the tradition to the whole thing always on the right side facing, three times with honked. This, if you do not have time to stop. If you have time, or have a lot of sins, be sure to come out and buhni. And then - all right! Basically, do everything. Our guide, known as Bath, with an indescribable accent:

- Press s'ignal, when you go past the OBO! X'-a-Arashi? Three times!

- Why?

- Nada! So we delat'tsa nada.

- Nah ... I - baptized. I can not! You something - signal, if you like ... You - exactly nada ...

Guide again quietly clapped vodyary (apparently in a roadside cafe had dochirikatsya with Mongolians) and he zahoroshelo. Zablyastel look! Leaned back in his seat and took the pose ... No, Lotus ... A dust storm felled tree steppe, scattered its roots and legs and Haloxylon-arm in the front seat:

- F-z-x-y-z-W-g-u-u-u-and ... - Suddenly mixed with stale kumarnym, dug abrasive buzzing in our neokreshie to throat sound, the eardrum ...Guide (in English, by the way, had always been with the Mongolian accent is quite simple - Gad), who came in good spirits decided to attach us to the culture of Mongolian throat singing. Sound with piercing pain, with sverbyaschim screwing began shaking up our insides and organs ... Remember, the first thought in panic arose at once numb skull - there was some catastrophic flash in the sun! Where am I? Who am I? Who is buzzing? A? Why! For orientation in space - grabbed the steering wheel, trying not to lose control ...

- Yu-u-g-h-s-f-f-f-u-n-th-and-and-and-and-and-and ... - A little better myself, I chuystv-to-BBB-vuyu ... Getting used to ... Thus, the torture continued for several minutes ... Apparently, it attempts to restart our Indo-Mongolian matrices on the frequency of the processor ... Matrix reloaded refused and kept trying to turn the sound off. Yes, but ... not very out ...

- Slyshsh ... Vsihh n'ada kill, but ...

- Who is everyone?

- V'sihh, chuzhyhh ...

- Why not?

- A'ni h'atyat kill us all ... Prih'adyt and ubivat! We are small, and vsihh - mno'ga-a ... Pae'ttama nada their vsih's ubivat!

Animals outliers

Rocky outcrops

Kara Korumovskie
outliers

Wall remnants

Ancient remnants

It seems zakuklivanie national psychology small country that is all. Mongolia currently been overwritten between the two giants. From the north country threatens the White King, who always conquered all. (Not now, of course, but still - apprehension remains). From the south - China. Two billion already spawn (most recently, in 1945, the census had them - five hundred million souls) Those who will not yield at all, and just quietly assimilate everything! Everything that moves! (Dzungaria - one of the last examples of this). It turns out - for what they love, then? Neighbors. Yes the rest of that love? (Europeans and Americana for example) Because they are so rich and developed? Yeah, but ... Apparently it is necessary to love themselves and others - ubivat ...

Morning one of the days. 11:00. Follow another UAZ-loaf: it is a local carrier who thoroughly knows the way. During our participation morning rally, climbing to the head any seditious thoughts. For example, what is the UAZ-loaf? What is this? The notion was, whether the shape of the body, something like a loaf of bread, or - from the concept - thump! Yes, but ... I wonder ... Burhan - from what the concept is ... Because poburhanit here - indicates some concrete steps that resemble not a prayer. Suddenly, a passenger rushing ahead UAZ (Czech-teacher) woke appetite, and two of his neighbor gonkongtsa probably also hungry. I had to stop at the first got the local dusty roadside cafes. We sit so-so, sit together at a roadside yurt cafe. Bored waiting for the ordered dishes ... Serenely so bored and curious looks around each other. Fate brought this all together. We are waiting to eat us zamastyryat. Pull out from his pocket a liter ahead of stored moonshine. Satellites are suspicious sidelong glance at the contents of a plastic bottle ...

- Well, we samogonovku?

- Oh? No ... No-no ... Sorry ...

- ...? - My goggles. Come in, all right. Then try a different approach ...

- A whiskey? Viskar you?

- Oh! E-e ...

- Jesse!

- Well, then the first! - And instantly dabble on your mugs viskar-samogonovsky! What are they thinking? 'll Get another bottle, or what? Ha-Ha!And once again - Ha! So, where do I have it?

- Oh's! Good morning went! - Driver-Mongol their UAZ-loaf shrugged Adam's apple and sadly watched the contents of my stoparya, overturned in the throat ... Our companions, not waste time, too, slammed on the first ... (By the way, a little later, they drove to cover from extra eyes of the driver's door open, still has its hundred samogonovki. And it was covered by the satellite-tourists its very good reason - they see nastuchat where it does not, the driver, in turn, on the head nastuchat and fired easily ...)

- Oh-oh-oh ... Gut! - Zagaldeli chehogonkonkskaya company: liked though!

- On-the ... Tse Dilo! In the throat a little charge! Good!

- Time - 10 am! You're behind the wheel, but we still have to go the whole day today! - Alarm raised her my beautiful Mate half.

- Come on. Do not swear ... I'm not a zero to five will ... In total, only - ... liter! Just kidding, just kidding ... Hey, well, so 150 grams zhahnu for mood ... OK? She also see, they and all consecutive Burhan. And nepodryad - also at the same time! Yes, do not worry you! Good ...

Features
national
singing

Features
of national
power

Features
national
movement

Features
national
heating

Features
of national
worship

Features
of National
Internet

Features
national
drinking

Features
National
Park

Features
national
resting

However, for the entire two-week trip to Mongolia, we stopped only twice. And then - only a passport check. Right so never and no one bothered to ask.

Reindeer stone

A horse

Oh zhis ...

Departure toilet in Mongolia ... Oh-oh-oh ... This is a great historical saga (ancient pentameter under national throat singing!). Well, first of all: the toilet in Mongolia, by definition, all roadside curb. But! Since around either the Great Steppe, or at least the great desert, go far pointless. Nobody bother, and not coming off. Peasant in general simply turn the housing. By the way, we carried out this visit several typical roadside sign: if a car is on the road and not far from her people on their heels: it means - sending a toilet! If everything is the same, but one of the people lies - car broke down.If the same thing happens on the background of a pile of stones with color and sixth people handful - Burhan! If the car is upside down, and people are scattered around - an accident!

Gold morning

Heat

Again mound

Penumbra on the slopes

Another option ... I had to visit the local somehow, fairly decent camping organized for foreign tourists in Ulan Bator. Wow! Division into male and female toilets in the area simply does not exist! I realize, of course, all that is natural, it is not ugly ... But still, those issued M and M mixed sounds not quite evoke associations with harmony ... Some people of course they caress the ear, but not me. Ear I apparently incorrectly arranged! And I'm too shy to utter sounds in front of strangers. Even a piece of paper rustling! Europeans, by the way, quite oprostivshis in these conditions, do not bother about it. Or simply not to show it? And make sounds! The rest of their compatriots in the civilized these physical vibrations in the air at once become blind and deaf and dumb. That's what a good European education ...

Orhonorozhdenie

Travel
Photo Frame

Master class

Money Tengiz

Standard
condition of any
bridge Mongolian

Canyon deep in the
ancient lava

More ... We had one day to visit the nearest wooden toilet at roadside camp. I open the door ... All, as we have in the village. Just another hole in the floor. More ... Just - Abyss! From the word - the abyss! About half a meter in diameter, probably. What kind of banner you need to have to put your feet on the edges. Or should sit like a bird on the edge of a precipice. The gulf here - no problem. If you fall, even the edges are not hooked! But there are advantages - it is simply impossible to miss the mark! Another toilet in a roadside cafe ... Another revelation Orkhon ancient land. Opens the door to have some fear ... I. .. That's it! Sex as sex. Only one board is, and the other does not. And so - the whole floor! Knocked over a par! Zebra!It is important here not to slip. It is on this note, it is time to complete a minor subject. Enough already. Although there were certainly harder and options ...

The road ... We were told before the trip that there are no roads in Mongolia! There is only one direction. That "neither here nor there," "neither there nor here," and indeed, panymaesh ... I speak in sound mind and consciousness of the road there! And they - nemeryannom! (I mean - no one took it!) As close to the main track, there are at least a dozen quite beautiful groomed roads. In principle, the official length of roads in Mongolia can be safely increased by an order of exaggeration in that there would be no. By the way: stories about the Mongolian way heard at customs.

Rides, rides, rides on the Mongol UAZ-loaf on its mongoletskoy road. Almost asleep ... Suddenly - Bu-u-CC! Beat in the radiator! Loaf stalled. Middle of the road - a hefty boulder, bigger size UAZ. - Uh-huh? - Hurd-Burda ... Out. Ducks. E-et-mv-b! Move it to the side. Behind the wheel, and then again - going-going-going ... Until next stone ...

Noodles dried
mutton

Layout Lake
Tsagaan Nuur

5 degrees
Celsius

Lake
Tsagaan Nuur

Quickly things
are dry

Failure

Manmade
termites

Here is another road supervision - especially national drive. Let's go-go-go ... Steppe big. Boundless. In the distance looms (choice Mongol konyazhka, camel, etc.) In short, someone far telepaetsya to their desired daily activities. And whatever you do, as it does not turn, and did not act - the result is: you are sure to intersect with it! In the empty steppe! And here comes the next moment of truth. In Mongolia, no one never misses. And at the last moment before the inevitable counter-attack is not trying to avoid a collision. Culture is different. Better for them, perhaps, to death than hand you the way! Or what is worse? Recoil, deflect, braking, etc. - It is now just your destiny ...

Mongolian cuisine quite unassuming. But rather convincing in its simplicity. Horhog, buuzy, mare's milk and tea (Mongolian: with butter and flour, seasoned with salt). In fact, just about anywhere in the main course is available only noodles with lamb (fresh or dried). Many dishes on the basis of dairy products. Tried all sorts - quite sedobno. It is caused by food probably as scarcity of the surrounding vegetation which grows and nomadic way of life. Dishes based on the oven, tandoor, oven and cauldron - completely absent. It is surprising that with such an abundance and availability of animal meat that country is not generated anything like the barbecue or grill. And also: fish, poultry, all, mushrooms, etc. eat not. Much - not, and the rest - is not growing! How could that be? Dilemma! So, after a couple of days food in Mongolia is becoming quite monotonous and start swirling in your head all sorts and different gastronomic fantasies.

Another group of roadside yurt. Near kids bathe in the dust. Well im in the sun! Before them whiter exposed Bottle freshest kumys. Seeing that we have to brake, jump small agile smeared crazy. Racing sweep naperez under coach-foot wheel, piercing something with screaming. That cry not tell of course, but the meaning and so clear - buy! Kapite! Stopped. Rolled down the window and, taking a plastic bottle with the contents, filed lucky Tugri 5000. A moment of not thinking a three-year (by type), small fry - the girl-seller diligently counted the change.

-!? Stroke considered as delivery. Those guys themselves! Money already in thousands of counts in full growth. Cool! No way - Kovalevskaya of her future work!

- N'et. He does not shield um'eet. M'alenky he i'schscho. He d'engi color makes!